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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the family utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.